NATASHA'S CAFE SERVES UP ADVENTURE IN DINING
HOWARD M. SNYDER, HERALD-LEADER RESTAURANT CRITIC

When I reviewed Natasha's Cafe a few years ago, I thought it was a strange restaurant for Lexington. Now, after expanding its menu and polishing its service, it's still one of the most eclectic restaurants in town.

Natasha's is a tiny restaurant (seven or eight tables) and import shop on Southland Drive. Russian and Eastern European cooking, along with vegetarian selections and some interesting coffee drinks, are its specialty.

We started our meal with ice teas and a plate of assorted cream cheese rolls ($5). Thick concoctions of whipped cream cheese and flavor enhancers -- cucumber and minced or ground salmon, -- were rolled up in chapati bread. Chapati is similar to a tortilla. The flavors, especially in the cucumber and salmon rolls, were fresh-tasting and delicious. However, Natasha's was a bit too liberal with the filling. A small dish of finely diced ratatouille was served on the side.

Natasha's offers three meat dishes -- pork, chicken and beef -- and three vegetarian entrees. Accompanying each entree is a cup of the day's soup and a small Greek salad. The soup that night was a vegetarian borscht. Natasha's vegetarian version isn't as rich as the traditional version (with meat broth), but it was good. The thin beet soup had an earthy flavor and was served with a dollop of sour cream.

The Greek salad was delightful. A small amount of leaf lettuce was mixed with a lot of tomato and cucumber, a little onion and Greek olives. The oil- and-vinegar dressing had plenty of garlic. It was delicious.

Our entrees were midnight chicken ($7), which was a curried chicken over rice noodles. A chicken breast was cut into cubes and stewed with a variety of things, including onions, raisins, sour cream, garlic and curry.

The other entree was mushroom stew ($6.25), a vegetarian dish. Whole button mushrooms were sauteed with onion and sour cream then served over mashed potatoes. Mushroom fanatics and vegetarians will love it.

Natasha's also has a nice selection of desserts -- including an Italian cream cake, lemon tart, a brownie with Belgian chocolate icing and poppyseed bread. We tried the brownie with Belgian chocolate icing ($2.25), a rich cake brownie topped with a sweet and expensive-tasting chocolate icing. We also tried the poppyseed bread ($1.25), a sweet bundt cake filled with poppyseeds. A warm blueberry sauce and real whipped cream were served on the side.

For an eclectic and adventuresome dining experience, Natasha's Cafe is the place. Dinner for two was just over $20.